Friday, 2 October 2015

Exploring Sirmione 02/10/2015

Today we walked from the castle /keep at the harbor to the North end of the island where there is a 1C BC Roman villa the size of an IKEA warehouse.  It's quite ruined but some of the very high walls are still there and it's being restored. 

Then a visit to the church for tomorrow's wedding. Nearby was a hummingbird hawkmoth flitting from flower to flower. 

We wandered downhill on cobbled streets past the expensive clothes shops, gelateria and gift shops. Chose a restaurant for lunch and enjoyed pizza. 

Walked back to the apartment -in total 8km. 

Getting ready for family meetup and dinner tonight. 
The heavy rain has only just started so there will be showers tomorrow. 

Thursday, 1 October 2015

Sirmione, Lake Garda, Italy

Set the alarm for 1:30 am and left at 2:00. Drove to Dublin Airport and departed for Brgamo near Milan- the flight was three hours. To hire a car meant standing in a queue for 1.5 hours! 
Now sitting on the southern shore of Lake Garda admiring a view of mountains to the North and East of the lake. Temp is 17° and there isn't a breath of wind.  The forecast is appalling with heavy  rain due tomorrow, Saturday and Sunday. Echoes of Morocco last November. 
For the moment all is peaceful though.

Monday, 3 August 2015

Crom Estate, Co Fermanagh

http://www.butterflyconservation.ie/wordpress/ these are Jesmond Harding's words.

Any outdoor event planner worries about meteorological conditions which, to state it mildly, have been poor over much of 2015, April excepted.

Yet a well attended event in favourable weather went ahead at Crom on August 1st and it was well worth the risk for everyone who travelled to this beautiful location on Lough Erne, County Fermanagh.

Butterfly Conservation Northern Ireland’s Catherine Bertrand opened proceedings by revealing the moth trap catches of the previous night. Happily a target species, the Brown Scallop was recorded as were a number of Drinker moths and Clouded Borders. A Buff-tip was an unexpected but welcome surprise; this moth is more typically found in May and June. Following release of the moths and introductions the group departed along a path that took us to some interesting features; a pair of ancient Yews and a castle built during the Ulster Plantation (1609-1618). Under the plantation rules, a planter granted 2,000 acres had to construct a stone castle and accordingly a castle was built in the early years of the plantation. After passing the ruins of the castle (a new castle was built in 1840) we located Peacock larvae on the edge of a deep nettle patch. Interestingly, these were probably less than half grown, probably reflecting the cool conditions this summer and probably the latitude; the Peacock larvae in southern counties such as Kildare and Carlow are nearing full size or have pupated.

Our first sighting of a Silver-washed Fritillary, one of our two target species was obtained on south facing flower rich scrub/meadow edge. A female posed nicely for eager photographers. We did not know if this was all we would see as rain soon fell.

However, it abated and lunch followed in a sheltered walled garden which has largely reverted to natural vegetation. Small Tortoiseshell, Meadow Brown and two handsome Silver-washed Fritillaries were found, feeding chiefly on Creeping Thistle. An interesting plant, Maidenhair Fern, was found sprouting from the stonework of an ornamental garden centerpiece.

We resumed until we reached a large clearing in the Oak/Hazel/Common Ash/willow wood and here things got lively. A male Four-spotted Footman, a rarity in Northern Ireland and not especially common further south was found climbing a grass stalk, in immaculate condition. A vista of hot orange soon presented itself. From where we stood, Andrew Harding counted 27 Silver-washed Fritillary butterflies, mostly freshly minted.  Feeding avidly they allowed close approach; so much so, that most of our time was spent in admiring and photographing them. Again, the location of Crom, inland and to the north influences phenology; these butterflies were new emergents while in the Raven many of the Silver-washed Fritillaries are tattered and worn. Many were feeding on Marsh Thistle and Angelica which they shared with thickets of Soldier Beetles and Ringlets. When the sun was hidden, some fritillaries took to the tree canopy while others basked on bracken.

There was still some unfinished business. We still had to find Purple Hairstreak. John O’Boyle and Jesmond Harding  displayed their acumen with stick throwing, attempting to dislodge a Purple Hairstreak from a tall oak. Still no luck. Then Clifford Sharp spotted a female, flashing royal purple, flying across to the oak we were agitating. Then sightings followed, when the butterflies hopped from one area of the canopy.

Finally, even though I certainly could have stayed in that clearing for the rest of the day, we headed back, some of us taking tea in the Visitors’ Centre. We got a great day out, met many new butterfly lovers and renewed acquaintances with our fellow lepidopterist organisation in Northern Ireland. We were made so welcome and the warmth and friendliness shown greatly enhanced our pleasure in seeing butterflies in this beautiful and important region in Fermanagh.

Thanks to BCNI for inviting BCI members to their event.

Photographing a Silver-washed Fritillary. ©J.Harding.

Plantation castle ruins. ©J.Harding.

Ornamental boathouse, now housing bats. ©J.Harding.

Lakeside Purple Loosestrife. ©J.Harding.

Four-spotted Footman. ©J.Harding.

Silver-washed Fritillary head on. ©J.Harding.

Three's a crowd. ©J.Harding.

Monday, 8 June 2015

Luxury camping

John and Paul had finished their day's cycling by the time we arrived. Hugged little sis and walked up to the local pub, the Balconie, to check if we could have dinner there.....no problem. 
Had a luxurious hot shower and a change of clothes then all seven of us walked up the hill to the pub. We ate a feast! Of course the cyclists can eat as much as they like since they burn 7000 calories on their journey. 
Read their Land End to John of Groats blog

So the next day we mosied off after the cyclists had departed. 

Heading for Maybole but eventually decided to catch the 7:30pm Cairnryan to Belfast  ferry instead. Changed the booking online and drove on. 250 miles yesterday. 
The ferry journey was interesting because most of the passengers were returning from a football match. They sat near the TV and drank beer after beer.  On the other side of the ferry were some buxom and glamorous women. Big blonde hair put up in chignons. Lots of pink outfits and bare shoulders, even the little girls. It was just like  My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding (on TV) for these were Travellers returning from the traditional Appleby Fair Their men folk were downing the pints whilst the women enjoyed catching up on gossip. 
That's all for now......








 

Saturday, 6 June 2015

Day 5 heading south

Last night I saw two white tailed sea eagles, a pair of buzzards and a female deer. 
Today we woke to a chilly morning with strong winds and scudding clouds. 
The Castle of Mey was our first stop.   Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, owned this house from 1953.  She paid  £100 because it was so dilapidated and spent a lot of money on renovations.  It isn't a large house. No ensuite bedrooms. Rather old fashioned in furnishings but comfortable with superb views across the Pentland Firth to Orkney.   Prince Charles takes the house for August like his grandma used to.  This is a view from the side.



Bill was desperate to get a newspaper so we took a long and scenic route to the south past Thurso. Tesco is everywhere in Scotland. One expected rural country stores but instead vans displaying Tesco's logo " you shop, we drop" is a sign of the times and Internet shopping. 
Lunch stop on a single track road. 


If you are looking on a map we drove from Tongue to Lairg and Bonar Bridge. This was all Sutherland county....windswept, heather moors, and rivers in spate. Have arrived in Evanton near Cromarty Firth and are ensconced in a luxury campsite with showers! Ann, George and Karen are here plus the two Lejog cyclists.


 They expect to be finished their long ride by Monday. They've had miserable weather but have coped and are probably the stronger for it.  We can stay in the camper when it's wet and windy.

Friday, 5 June 2015

Day 3 Sunshine - Day 4 Rain

This morning was sunny and we determined to get away from the site quicker than the last few days. Making breakfast, setting out the table, packing away the bed and bedding,  getting washed and dressed  plus emptying the waste water and collecting fresh  and putting away the electric cable all takes time. This morning we managed it in an hour which was an hour quicker than the first day.
Off to Skara Brae..the reason for coming to Orkney. Could've got in free as we entered the building at the same time as a coach party from a cruise ship!  Looked at the interpretation display then walked back in time to 5000BC. A Snipe was visible tucked down on its nest in the rushes and a pair of Great Skua patrolled the sky above. 


The remains of the Neolithic houses are impressive having been uncovered by a storm in 1867(?). There is a replica house to walk through. It's  large and roomy being 5 metres in diameter with built-in beds and a dresser. ..all made of stone and a high roof with whale bone trusses.  Something I learned today... Neolithic people are Stone Age folk who settled down to farm. Their tools were stone and bone but they had a good diet and comfortable houses. 

Spent half an hour at an RSPB Hide The Loons. Greylag geese supervising a crèche of 13 goslings, shoveler, one wigeon, singing Sedge Warbler and a bird of prey (probably Hen Harrier) being harried by gulls. There are breeding lapwings and oystercatchers everywhere on this island. 

From here we drove to Brough of Birsay, an island accessible by low tide over a causeway.  The first ruins encountered here are Viking longhouses and a church.  We walked clockwise around the island, past a lighthouse and were closely examined by a hunting Great Skua.  Close views of a nesting razorbill. 




A quick visit to Stromness was made even quicker by mistakenly driving down a narrow paved street which we couldn't avoid. So we drove the whole length of Stromness and then left! Visited some standing stone sites and then a chambered cairn which rivals Newgrange in Ireland. (Newgrange is better).
Back to our campsite at Evie for supper in the rain.  

On Friday 5th we drove a short distance to the Brough of Gurness - an Iron Age defended settlement with a huge ditch and satellite dwellings surrounding a fortified tower with 5 foot thick walls. The Picts were the people who lived here. 

Next stop Kirkwall to view the Bishop's Palace and the Earl's Palace.


 The Earl was Robert Stewart, a greedy and unpopular man descended illegitimately from James V (his grandfather).  Eventually he was beheaded in Edinburgh. 
Rain was driving in from the East on a strong wind so we decided to head for the ferry at St Margaret's,  relax and wait.  ..and of course the sun came out!

Tonight we are staying on the north Caithness coast at Scarfskerry. Tomorrow the plan is to visit the Castle of Mey and then meet up with Ann and her cycling entourage somewhere near Inverness. They are on their way from Land's End to John of Groats (LEJOG).

Wednesday, 3 June 2015

Day 2 arrival on Orkney

Drove along the NE coast of Highland, Sutherland and Caithness with dramatic cliffs and distant views of oil rigs and close views of deer. 
Arrived in John o'Groats at 12:30 and took compulsory photograph. There isn't much to this place apart from a campsite and a few houses plus a cafe. You can take a passenger ferry from here but we drove on a few miles to Gills Bay and luckily found a place on the catamaran. We were only given a place at the last moment and were last to board.

Arrived an hour later in strong wind but plenty of sunshine. On the journey I spotted at least six Great Skua plus plenty of auks and gannets. We stopped at the ferry office in St Margaret's and booked our Saturday morning sailing. Took a peek at another CL site and then drove on to the amazing little Italian Church built by Italian prisoners or war in the forties.  The church in a converted Nissen hut is filled with frescoes and tromp d'oeils. Well worth a visit as the Italians made a miniature piece of Italy in this remote outpost. The Italians were brought to Orkney from El Alamein in Africa to build sea defenses at Scapa Flow which is a deep sheltered bay in the south of the group of islands. Churchill ordered sea barriers to be made to protect the harbour.

 These defenses are now part of a road system joining together a group of islands. We landed on south ronaldsay, drove onto Burray en route to Main Land where we are now.
St Magnus cathedral was built in the early 1100's when these islands were ruled by Norway. It is rather magnificent.  Then we walked through part of the old town of Kirkwall which is full of little narrow passageways from one road to the next just like Wexford in Ireland.  Our next stop was ..... Lidl. Yes, and Tesco is here too.
Now we are camped at a place called Evie on a hillside overlooking Rousay island. 


Jim, the campsite owner is a farmer with 450 acres and 150 head of cattle. The spring has been so poor that he hasn't yet managed to get the cattle out in the fields as everything is so wet. 
That's all for today. 



Scotland trip

We played bridge on Monday night then set off for the boat after a brief kip at home. The unseasonal stormy weather caused the ferry to be a bit later than scheduled hence rush hour Glasgow traffic combined with heavy rain slowed us up quite a lot.

Having decided to get as far north as possible we drove on up the A9 passing Perth and stopping at the famous House of Bruar for something tasty to eat. By 4pm at Nigg, Cousin Kenny and Fiona welcomed us for a short interlude with tea and coffee and conversation. Bill was impressed with Kenny's new Biomass automated heating system on the farm and we made an inspection.  Our next stop was to Cousin Lin and her two shy sons. Then a short drive along the route to Dornoch for a night at a quiet CL Site on a farm beside a small natural pond. 

Wednesday Morning update 
Bright sunshine but very gusty winds today. 

Sunday, 24 May 2015

Campervan first outing

We set off from home on a lovely day and drove to Sligo in three hours. Parked in the hotel car park and set off for the bridge congress. What a huge event!  The success of the Yeats country Congress is largely due to Fearghal o'Boyle currently the president of the Irish Bridge union, CBAI. Over the last 30 years he has taught numerous beginners and coached improvers.  This is the largest congress we have ever attended. 

Friday night in the Mixed Pairs we ended up 10th out of 40.  Not so good on Saturday though. 

Friday night we crept out to our tiny van in the corner of the car park and shut the blinds for the night. In the morning we drove out to Rosses Point, just NW of Sligo town. It was warm and mild so we walked along the  spotless beach observing and listening to sand martins, skylarks, meadow pipits, swallows,  reed buntings, stonechats, dragonflies, bumble bees, ringed plover and linnet. We made a detour and found a small marshy pond with mallard ducklings and heron.  This is our spot for Saturday night.   Saw marsh marigold and another flower I don't recognise. 
Helen, if you are reading my post, we might come back to this wee beauty spot in June. 

Now on the train to Dublin and Wexford. This will be my last time for paying on the Irish transport system as I get my Senior rail card in June and then it's all free....some advantages to being older. I remember my father saying he'd rather pay and be younger!

Tuesday, 24 February 2015

Last report from indi

Final report from guest blogger Helen Cooper

Well, I'm writing this from a Qatar Airways Airbus A380-800 waiting for lift off at Doha Airport in Qatar. There are two decks on the aircraft and a member of the Qatari royal family is on the upper level. We saw him board the plane, ahead of everyone else, with a team of bodyguards surrounding him. The plane is new, clean and comfortable and it looks like we're in for a good flight experience after an uneventful hop from Goa.

Our last few days in Goa saw us on board the small blue and white boat that is hired by Mr Kamat, who took us up the Zuari River in the early morning. We do this trip most years and it's a very relaxing way to spend three hours. The Zuari has mangroves on the river banks and it is home to crocs, fish, bats, birds and many other species of wildlife. To date it remains unspoiled but from time to time there are plans put forward to build a yacht marina, a new bridge and a large fishing port. Mr Kamat believe these proposals would damage the fragile eco system that currently exists.

We paid one final visit to the wonderful market at nearby Mapusa for last minute shopping and to soak up the atmosphere. Friday is the main market day in Mapusa and the open spaces and alleyways are crowded with vendors from all over Goa. Stall holders call out loudly hoping to sell their products to the passing shoppers. The fresh fruit and vegetables stalls pile their goods high and orderly in a wonderfully colourful display. Fruits sellers in one area and vegetables in another.  One large covered hall houses baskets full of flowers, loose or strung together, to take to the temple and hang on a shrine. A smaller covered area sells hot fresh baked bread rolls of various shapes and sizes. Fish, meat, rice, chillies, & spices, sit alongside small shops selling plug in electrical goods, towels and bedding, opticians, cafes, watch sales and repairs, goldsmiths, metal goods, plastic ware, lighting spares, stationary, luggage, cobblers, tailors and a hundred and one sari and clothing shops. Everything can be found in Mapusa, and if one stall holder doesn't have what you require then his friend is sure to have it.

Sunday was packing day........always a worrying time. Will the zips close on the suitcase? Only just.  Then at 17.30 Umesh, the housekeeper from the Marinha Dourada Hotel (where we used to stay) arrived, along with his wife and child. Cookery lessons commenced and we were taught how to make coconut and cashew masala. Afterwards we served up the tasty mixture in bowls and complimented each other on the delicious flavours.

And that's it for this trip, so it's over and out from Wi Fi in the sky compliments of Qatar Airways.

Helen

Thursday, 19 February 2015

Defence and dealing

Some folk we met yesterday invited us for lunch today and organised Bridge with their neighbours. 
Defense Colony was land originally set aside for Military folk so that they could build houses. The area is well set out with leafy avenues and detached homes.  A greedy developer is trying to cut down some nearby jungle to build apartments but is being challenged under some Green Legislation. 
 Our friends provided us with a delicious lunch of prawn and cauliflower curry, chicken patties, bean masala, kingfish steak, bhindi, chappati, curd and rice. Then a huge rich chocolate fudge cake! My goodness! No room left....but thank you very much!

Then we were driven round to the house of an Air Marshall (retired)  for rubber bridge. These men play up to five times a week for one rupee per point. They don't make much money but the competition is fierce!


They play five card majors, 16-18 no trump, one club with one diamond denying 8 points, 4 clubs is ace asking. 

A good afternoon was spent in the cool air under a ceiling fan.
Tomorrow they are coming to play at our apartment. 

Wednesday, 18 February 2015

Mariaelena and Hotel Palindrone

We were invited to our landlady's lovely house for lunch today but arrived a bit late due to getting lost.  We met Vijay and Cheryll, their ex military friends.
Kamal had prepared a delicious lunch of prawn curry, ladies fingers, rice, chicken and cheese, lasagna, curd and naan.  During the meal I was inquiring about bridge and Cheryll mentioned neighbors who play. A quick phone call and it was arranged for tomorrow.

We revisited the Art Chamber with Philip and Carol, to hear talented Mariaelena Fernandes, Indian origin Austrian, play classical and improvised piano with a talented Austrian folk heritage group playing as many as 20 different instruments. The unlikely combination made our feet tap and our ears tingle with delight for almost two hours! 


The Art Chamber is one of the places to see and be seen in North Goa. There's a whole mix of Goans, English, German, Austrian, French and Bombayites some dressed to the nines and others in shorts.  We look forward to attending more concerts next year.



Tuesday, 17 February 2015

Premature evacuation!

What can this mean?
We were waiting for the bus when a grumpy taxi driver stopped to ask us if we wanted to use his taxi. His question was 
"How much do you want to pay me?"
That's a turnaround because normally we first ask, before we get in "how much is it?"

We bargained a but and he sourly agreed to 200 rupees. We climbed in delighted to be out of the hot sun.  After half a mile we spotted some twenty year old girls flagging our driver down despite the taxi being engaged.
They asked him to take them to Panjim for 400 rupees because they had to catch a bus to the airport urgently. 
That was it for us! We were turfed out to wait for the bus.."no charge madam"!  What a cheek! But what fun! We laughed and laughed as we waited for a bus that cost us 30rs! 

Now we understand the meaning of a phrase we have often seen 

The Company reserves the right to change these terms and conditions at any time without prior notice. 

If you are expecting a post card it's in this letter box.

Saturday, 14 February 2015

Waiter waiter there's water in my crab!

Several days ago we were accosted by a charming waiter to come and eat later that evening. He showed us a very large crab and it looked so tempting that we decided to come back. It cost about £20 for the two of us. Helen ordered Italian style with no sauce.


 It arrived with shell already split and claws broken for us. However when we looked inside there was hardly any meat but a lot of water. 
We didn't eat it and informed the waiter it was inedible.  Watery crab is something Helen had heard of. Apparently it happens around the time the crab moults. Fishermen told us it happens around the time of the full moon. The waiter blamed the cook. The owner blamed the waiter.  All theories are welcome. 
We were brought red snapper instead and we refused to pay even £6 for the crab we couldn't eat. We DID pay for the snapper but think it was more than the price on the menu.

Next day we met the waiter. He told us that as he had sold us the crab and we didn't pay for it then HE had to pay for it. So he paid £5 out of his own wages.  But never mind...this is how he got his money back.  They sold the crab we rejected to other customers as crab curry!  And not only that ... 
...As the season is so poor and they had run out of Jumbo prawns...how to sell something as a jumbo prawn? Take one jumbo and place the head in front of a smaller tiger prawn's body..  Ha ha! The customer is fooled.  
Good advice would be to always order Italian style because they can't hide the meat under a thick sauce! 
The episode shows the precarious nature of employment here doesn't it?

Post script
Today we met a fisherman who told us you can tell a watery crab by pressing on the underside. A good crab, which is firm, costs 800 rupees at the market whereas a watery crab costs 100 rupees.
Obviously our restaurant had purchased a cheap crab and used it to attract customers even though they knew it was a poor one. They can disguise the lack of meat in a masala sauce. 

Friday, 13 February 2015

Breakfast on the beach

Porridge, banana and soft roll for breakfast on the beach.

Different

I've spent most of the day on Patnem Beach. People here are younger and fitter. There are two slim beauties twisting hula hoops around their bodies in the sunset. A group of young men is playing beach volleyball. As there are no beach vendors it is easy to stride along the beach without hassle.  A man walks along the beach playing his guitar. Two twenty year olds march along with heavy rucksacks. 

It's very quiet and low key. Music from the beach restaurant is relaxing and doesn't compete with others. 
Yoga and Ayurvedic massages are on offer. ....mmmm.


Thursday, 12 February 2015

Patnem beach

House Hunting

By guest travel writer Helen...

On Wednesday we set off to walk along Palolem beach in search of new lodgings for Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. The first place we called at had space but the lodge didn't inspire us, so we moved on in search of bigger and better.

Over a rickety wooden bridge, up some steps and along the coastline past deserted beaches, fishing villages, we eventually arrived at Patnem beach. Here we found accommodation for the weekend that met our high standards. We ate lunch and negotiated a satisfactory price for the three nights. It is possible to live here, in a beach shack, for about £5 each per night, but we require a slightly higher level of comfort than the average gap year traveller.

Earlier in the day we had booked a table for a feast of fresh crab on the beach that evening, with live music from the sixties era, performed by an aged greying, long haired, German.

The very expensive large crab was watery and we both complained and refused to eat it, so the restaurant cooked and served us red snapper, which was tasty. We were to learn later that crabs are watery when there is a full moon and should not be caught or eaten until at least five days before and after.

Fish photo....

Early on Thursday  morning, before sunrise, we took a wooden fishing boat out into the bay to spot Dolphins. However, they were a little too distant and didn't ride the bow wave of the fishing boat.   The sea eagles here were bountiful and spectacular. They perched for a photo shoot on the giant smooth rocks that rise from the sea, just off shore. In the short stretch of coastline between Palolem and Agonda we saw at least nine eagles. 


Tuesday, 10 February 2015

Dhudsagar Falls

On Sunday 8th February George, a taxi driver, took us for a walk in the forest to the very top of these falls. We drove from OffTheGrid along forest tracks in his 4x4 Mahindra. After about 60 minutes we emerged and started hiking downhill. We waded across a river and continued till we came to a small waterfall with a pool below it. No, this wasn't the end of the trek... We continued alongside the river clambering over enormous boulders. After about two hours we could see a distant view across the hills. Creeping along to the edge we saw a train moving slowly up the hill from Goa. 58 goods bogies needed two engines in front and two pushing from behind. Tourists far below were admiring the waterfall. Up on the top Some  rock pools were large enough for a chilly dip. 



Sylvia had organised a picnic for the six of us which was eaten with relish. George was most helpful, in his flip flops, leaping agilely over the rocks and lending a supporting hand where needed. 

Our six hour adventure was made complete by a dip in the rock pool beside OffTheGrid. An added bonus is a free, foot pedicure by small fish living in the water! 
On Monday we were pleased to get a train from Castle Rock to Margao.
I thought you'd like to see this poster pinned to the wall of the station. 


Although we purchased a 50 rupee Standard Class ticket we ended up in 3 AC sitting beside a group of educated young folk from Hyderabad. One of the girls works for Amazon as a software engineer and the others worked at call centres. They were on their way for a five day holiday in Goa. 
The ticket inspector studied our cheap tickets and compared the price we had paid with the correct price in his book. We ended up paying IR530 each but it was worth it to sit in cool air and relative comfort. 
At Margao  we caught a bus and TukTuk to Palolem where we have flopped down exhausted after 6 hours of traveling.

Monday, 9 February 2015

High in the Western Ghats 6-9th February

I can't describe sufficiently the wonderful paradise we are living in. On the eastern side of the Ghats with evergreen forest and ridges  all round us.  The trees descend the steep slopes to the hill streams and a waterfall. The small farm called OffTheGrid is beside rice paddies and a few banana palms. Wood smoke from the open kitchen floats on the air. 
Our room is open on three sides with roman blinds for privacy. At the moment all these blinds are raised and a cooling breeze wafts over the bed in lieu of a fan. Having no electricity Sylvia and John use solar powered batteries to charge night lights. 

There is a house with two guest rooms upstairs overlooking the paddy and the forest. 
In the grounds are 2 cabins and a tepee. The dining area is shaded from the hot sun by a large sheet. In the evening chill we  sit by a wood fire in the garden to chat and gaze at the stars. Apart from a single farmer nearby there is no light or noise pollution. 
  
Vernal hanging parrots (India's only true parrot) seem to be in abundance. White breasted waterhen, Oriental white-eye, ashy drongos, pin tailed snipe, green bee eaters and sunbirds abound. In the dawn the Malabar whistling thrush sings his tune meandering up and down the scale. You could be convinced that it's a local farmer whistling on his way to work. You might also hear the cackle of a laughing thrush early in the morning along with the whoop of monkeys.

Today we walked up through the forest to a plateau on top. At one point a large savannah grass area is reminiscent of kenya. Tigers and wild Gaur have been seen here.  I never have seen this beautiful and unspoiled India. If you are considering coming to India you will love this remote farm.  

Ten out of ten!! 



Friday, 6 February 2015

Up in the hills at Backwoods

The minibus collected us at 5:10 am. Two more boarded round the corner at Marinha Dourada and another two at Ponda. 
Leio also climbed on board to be our guide for the next few days.
He also has a website www.indiannaturetours.com and organises trips to the north and Gujurat. 
There seems to be fewer numbers of birds than in previous years. We had very good views of a pair of Vernal Hanging Parrot...India's only parrot. There are plenty of parakeets and here we've seen Malabar and plum headed parakeets. 
We've seen Malabar pied hornbill and Malabar grey hornbill. White bellied, heart spotted woodpecker. Also  greater flameback and black rumped flameback..these are also woodpeckers. 

The food at Backwoods is delicious with a good range of tasty local dishes.  
Our little cabin has an en-suite bathroom with a wet floor shower. Needing the loo I first checked it and there was a frog swimming about in the water. It wouldn't flush away. There's a drain hole in the floor with no cover and the frogs pop up through the hole which is now blocked with rolled-up toilet paper! 

Tuesday, 3 February 2015

Western ghats

Just to let you know that we are going to the Ghats tomorrow at 5am! 😭

Will be at Backwoods Camp for two nights and three days of birding, before travelling on into Karnataka (the State adjoining Goa) to a place called 'Off the Grid', for three nights. Then we move down to South Goa to Palolem.

There may not be any wi Fi so don't worry if we are silent for a while

Saturday, 31 January 2015

Choosing the view

Walked up alongside Baga Creek beyond the bridge. Looked at the new Acron luxury hotel with an infinity pool hanging over the river. The best rooms here cost £140 a night with a sea view. We think it is too costly because the situation is too close to the Baga nightclubs and the thumping noise would shake the windows! 

However this is one of the views of Baga Creek.


Don't be fooled! The photo below is 90 degrees to the right.




These are the Indian holiday makers who come to Baga for boat rides,  watersports, alcohol and views of bikini-clad Westerners. They are from dry States so the alcohol is a big plus for them. The rising tide has squeezed them onto a narrower part of the beach.  Notice that it is mostly single men. They aren't allowed girlfriends so they come with their pals.  They stay 8 to a room. This beach is just across the creek from the lovely hotel. 

We avoid these places because further North are quiet beaches with white sand and few people. 

Thursday, 29 January 2015

Celebration for a 1 year old

We had intended to meet our friend Umesh with his heavily pregnant new wife last year. But she had the baby early and it wasn't a good time to descend on them.
So last night we joined about 30 other people to celebrate the baby's first birthday. There were lights, balloons and decorations, lots of extra chairs. 


This is Umesh with his son, Suraj. Can you see kohl marks on his cheeks?
There were two huge chocolate covered birthday cakes. The child is seated on a chair covered with an embroidered cloth. People come and bless him and shower his head with puffed rice. The baby was unconcerned and fascinated with these little bits of rice that had fallen on him.


Next is the cake cutting ceremony with his mother guiding his hand.
Afterwards there was a delicious vegetable thali for everyone to eat. 
Chillies in batter, chick peas in a sauce, rice with vegetables and a cashew nut dish. 

The snake and the banyan tree

By our guest travel writer, Helen Cooper.


A few nights ago I went for a walk to see Jerry, the watchman who manned the gates at our complex last year before suddenly being moved to another property without notice. He used to work as a cook in the British Embassy in Muscat, Oman. Anyhow I found out which gates he was manning this year and set off to find him. His new location was only a fifteen minute walk from our apartment down a dirt track and over a causeway. Before long I could see Jerry on the path ahead. He came to greet me like a long lost friend and asked me to bring Norma along next time. We chatted and I headed back down the road towards home.

After a minute or two I met three young men enjoying a beer or two who  were river fishing and invited me to look at their catch. Along the bank there lay a hessian sack a quarter filled with river crabs. These are much smaller than any crabs that we would eat but they assured me they were very tasty and offered to give me enough for dinner. I thanked them kindly but refused.

Not far from these young men was a large arched gateway with huge metal padlocked gates, so I asked what lay behind the neglected construction. An anxious look came upon the face of the fisherman. Oh dear, he said, that is a very bad place and he warned me not to go there. He told me that it was the main entrance to a new five star hotel but that work had stopped because a man had cut down the Banyan tree. This tree was home to a snake and now the snake had no house he explained. The site had been abandoned and the gates locked about eight years ago and the construction workers refused to return.
When I asked what would happen he told me that the land owner would have to get the Hindu priest to come in and exorcise the area to clear it of the bad spirits. It would take some time and no one wanted to work there until the site was made good again. The owner could also build a shrine to the snake and do puja there daily until things were back to normal but it could take many years.
Banyan tree

We asked our driver VJ about this site a few days later and he confirmed the story adding that the healthy man who had felled the Banyan tree had suddenly become ill and had died thus adding credence to these unfortunate events.

Many of the shops and houses here have small dolls, usually made from black fabric with white painted features, hanging at the property entrance. One house close by has four colourful pottery cobras above the doorway, in order to ward away the bad spirits. In this respect beliefs are very much the same as those in Morocco.

This is a photo of a doll, but unusually, this one is grey. 

Black ones below for sale.

Big Pecker

Remish Kuttan has run this small cafe in Calangute for eleven years. He is from Kerala where his wife and nine year old daughter live. In the off season, from late April to the beginning of October, he shuts up shop and goes home. Whilst in Kerala he helps with the family plot where they grow vegetables for home consumption. 
 
We like to sit here and watch the world go by. Local people, Russsians dressed in skimpy clothes and bare chests (men), elderly folk sometimes in shorts and sometimes more tastefully attired, tribal women carrying a baby and begging, beggars with various disabilities, the local priest with a holy ox wearing flower garlands, a man on his knees praying to a Hindu shrine in the middle of the dusty street.  

We love the variety of life here. 
Remish is quite happy at his work and always has a welcoming smile. His philosophy is not to long for unattainable things. 

Wednesday, 28 January 2015

Taken for a ride!

We arrive into this busy market town at the Kadamba bus station. There are at least 50 buses, some arriving and some just leaving. No bus seems to stay still for long. People try to scramble off the bus before it has stopped and others are pushing to get on and grab a seat before the passengers disembark. Meanwhile the conductors are on the ground hustling for passengers and others shouting ar-re! ar-re! ar-re! Hurry, hurry, hurry. Get on the bus quickly. No time to stop. The bus is going now! Get on board!
I'll try to get a better photo but this is a temporary Google Earth shot.

It doesn't show any people!  There are folk everywhere...

Unlike our bus stations at home there are people milling about in front of, behind and beside the buses. Leaping off and pushing on. The ground is dusty and uneven with potholes. 
We decided to wait for the next bus because this one was full but the conductor was having none of it. 
We said there were no seats. 
He told us there would be seats in five minutes...once we were out of the bus station and away from the traffic police. 

 So we squeezed on and sure enough, five minutes into the journey, we were given a small space in the driver's cab! I sat on a metal box and Helen sat on the gearbox where it was hot! And we weren't the only ones in there..two others joined us! (The fare for 10km is 10p.)


This is the fun of India...nothing is impossible. These people find a way round any problem.  
How is this different from our Western ways?  Answers below please! 
I don't know who is reading this blog but any comments are welcome.

Tuesday, 27 January 2015

Monday and Tuesday

Monday was Republic Day, a public holiday. We asked our taxi driver to take us to the far North of Goa which isn't really very far. 
First stop was a chance to look at a pair of beautiful white bellied sea eagles.

Then up to the border with Maharashtra. It's so quiet and unspoiled there. Village life exists here. Banana, coconut, mango, cashew nut trees and pineapple bushes. No big hotels or nightclubs. 
We saw about twenty or thirty boats laden with men scooping sand from the river bed with buckets on long poles. 


 These men are probably from Karnataka. They keep scooping until the boat is full and then gingerly return to shore. It must be valuable to them to risk their boats and their lives.



Indian pond heron

Spent a few hours in the cool breeze on a sun lounger at Mandrem beach which was quiet and pleasant. Delicious lunch at the beach cafe.

Late in the evening we met Thompson and Tricia for a drink. They fly home on Thursday morning.  

Today, Tuesday, we took the bus to Mapusa to fetch our glasses. Helen couldn't resist these...


£2:00 for 12" dressmaking shears.


We caught the crowded bus back. Standing room only. An elderly woman told me to request a seat from the man sitting in front of her. He was sitting in a Ladies Only seat. When I asked him he said "No!" because he was sitting beside his wife. A man sitting beside the elderly woman gave me his seat instead. Then erupted a row between my ally and the man and woman in front. I think he said they were from Karnataka. There was a lot of shouting and still he didn't offer up his seat....




Saturday, 24 January 2015

Friday and Saturday update

After our early start on Thursday we decided to take a more relaxing day and walked 3.5 km to Calangute beach. There was no wind and a slight haze which made walking quite exhausting. When we reached Calangute we paused at a Kashmiri stall holder to look at his cushion covers. We bought some of these in past years and they are getting harder to find. Helen bought these.  
We then had a discussion with the Kashmiri about politics and women not being free..he said women are like diamonds and have to be looked after. But a diamond is a possession - in our culture women aren't possessions. He said our women aren't free anyway because they get attacked.


By twelve o'clock he had to go for prayers and we were parched so we wandered on to the Big Pecker for lime soda, water and omelette. 
I was overcome with heat and had to back to the apartment for an afternoon siesta.
In the evening we taxied to the Art Chamber in Calangute to hear the Banjara Gypsy Quartet play. This is a new venue for us. The Banjara quartet were absolutely brilliant. All professional musicians with great talent - lots of toes tapping! Great reception from the multi national audience of Swedish, German, Irish, Goan, English, Italian, French. The band members hail from Austria, Russia, Mumbai and Ahmedabad. 
The Art Chamber is run by a German with his Goan artist, wife. They have art classes during the day and hold weekly concerts of a high standard. If international musicians or dancers etc are in the vicinity they try to persuade them to come and play/dance in this small venue.  We will definitely be back. 

Saturday... We are lying low because this is a long weekend for Indians. Monday is Republic Day.  Indian tourists descend from the North in search of warmth, sun, alcohol and possibly sex. Many arrive in long distance sleeper coaches and as they drive through the busy street we hear chants and singing, whooping and calling from the open windows in anticipation of their holiday weekend.
Time to shut the windows at night to block out anti-social noise after  midnight. 
Walked along the river this morning and along to Babas French Bakery. We sat under the fans drinking tea and reading three different local newspapers.